February

This Ferbuary, I…

instagram - Festung

– thaught my sister how to make a half-circle skirt

– stayed in Salzburg with my family for a week

– started a scrapbook concerning sewing plans and inspiration

– held a presentation about fashion from 1900-1910

– bought and ordered fabric for my fashion project for school

– moved again

– signed up for two extremely exciting projects, both happening in Vienna this May

– celebrated my father’s birthday

– purged my closet

– went to see The Imitation Game and the Oscars (in cinema as well)

Salzach

bday

architecture

shadow

schönbrunn

Wardrobe Architect 2015

closet

Last year’s Wardrobe Architect Series by Coletterie was immensly helpful to me. It helped me clearly figuering out what I want and what I don’t like, what suits me and my lifestyle and what are essentials in my closet. I started with a pretty good picture of all this already, but the series helped me thinking more about my style and my clothes. I ended the series with attemting the capsule wardrobe – and failed. I wanted to sew too many projects than I was capable to tackle and while it was fun to scheme and map everything out, I started to loose interest in this concept. Why restrict myself to wear not all of the clothes from my closet, if I like them all?

wardrobe screenshot

New year, new try. There is a new installment of the series now, refreshing the concept and giving even more examples than last year. Once again, I’m following along, trying to re-define my style: It has evolved and matured and I think that now I’m finally on the right track.

I used to love two very differnt styles: One was glamorous, sensual, womanly and the other one was slim, androgynous, menswear-inspired. These two don’t go that well together, which I soon realised. My mood-board didn’t make much sense, the two concepts were just too contradicting. In my class in fashionschool, there are a couple of girls who truly live a very tomboyish style. You just won’t see them in high-waisted skirts. And that helped me I realised what I should do: All in or nothing. And I chose nothing when it comes to androgynous clothes.

I still have my men’s shirts and my beloved MMMxH&M men’s shoes. If paired in the right way, they look much more sensual than skimpy dress and slinky tops. I’m not going for a sexy look, I think covering parts of your body is often so much more seductive than showing them. I love how menswear worn by women can play with expectations and look so chic.

So this year, I’m really going for this mix. Still incooperaing menswear, but in a different way. I updated my inspirational pictures on my computer (see above, click for larger image) and also added pictures that convey certain moods or show colour combinations that I love. Going through these images makes me happy, it’s so much more ‘me‘ than it was before.

evaluating

So I did part I of the series – finding a core style and exporing shapes. I went through all the old worksheets again, re-writing my answers and trying to find ‘my’ words. The three most important ones are feminine, classic and dark (colour+mysterious=dramatic) and the additional ones are sensual, textured and dandy. They are similar to last year’s words, but more refined and describe what I’m going for in a better way.

Equipped with these words and a better understanding of my style, I did the February challenge: Taking inventory and cleaning out. As I was moving in January and Februray it was a good time to really go through my closet and throw everything out that I don’t wear anymore.

The first picture is my closet before the purge, sometime last summer. Many garments you see there are not in my posession anymore: The two dresses at the left, for example. Or the leopard jacket. Or the folded red cardigan with the white dots, as well as the khaki coloured one. I gave most of the things to my sister and if she didn’t like them, I donated them.

The inventory sheets were really helpful for this process. I realized that I have way to many tops and not enough bottoms. That I haven’t worn some items in ages, but that they are still too important to let go of them (I’m giving them another summer, but that’s the deadline.). That I definitely love blue. And that it feels so good to have more room and free space.

basics

In March, we will be planning sewing projects for spring – I love planning, so I can’t wait! Are you participating as well? Give it a try, it’s so worth it!

 

Schloss Schönbrunn

schönbrunn

Nearly exactly a year ago I visited Schönbrunn for the first time. Even though it is such an important building for Austria’s history, it took me 18 years to see it in person. It was last February, during the golden hour, just before the gates of the park closed. I was so touched by seeing it. It is so much larger than expected (though coming back now I must say I remembered it to be bigger), there were few people, everything was very clam, very quiet, very…. relaxing.

So today I returned. I recently moved and now the bus takes me past its gates every day, when I go to and return from school. Today I decided hop off the bus and take a stroll again: To see if things had changed, if everything was how I remembered it. This time, I didn’t walk up to the Gloriette (the gates were closing in half an hour), so I just wandered around, taking some pictures, like a tourist :). I know I’ll visit the park more often now – I live so close to it, it would be a waste not to do it. I envision myself on a bench there, in the summer, with a good book, sunglasses and a bottle of water. Or with some homework, or preparing for an upcoming test. There will be more people than there were today, but still, the atmosphere will be just as enchanting. Especially during the golden hour.

schloss schönbrunn

pond

DSC04790

birdhouse

New Semester

contrasting piping

New semester, a fresh start. My (school-) blouse is finished, just buttons and buttonholes are missing. (Don’t remind me of the trousers and the skirt! Our main teacher was sick (well newly pregnant actually) the whole January and therefore couldn’t show us the buttonhole machine. Stay tuned, she’s back now and hopefully will find the time soon). But back to the blouse. I chose to make her fitted, with princess seams, a yoke in the back and the front and a two-piece collar. Somehow Western-style. To add more details, I decided to insert (self-made) piping at the seams of the yokes, the cuffs and the collar. Man, that was a lot of work! Making it, inserting it, sewing the pieces together, topstitching… Adding the cuffs to sleeves was the worst. I do like the end result, but I’m not so sure if I will ever do that (all the piping) again. Well, at least not very soon.

Otherwise, the construction wasn’t too difficult. We learn all the extra techniques like plackets and collars and cuffs before making the real garment, so I was familiar with everything. Getting the fit right was a bit tricky, but after some on-paper pattern adjustments, I just had to highten the waist and redraw the sleeve cap – and actually cut a new pair of sleeves, I’m so glad I bought enough fabric! The CAD patterns aren’t always fitting just like that, out-of-the-printer, even though I used my own measurements and changed the basic pattern accordingly. But the end result fits well, so I don’t care anymore.

Additionally, I’m not sure what I was thinking about when I chose the colours of that blouse. Bright blue and poppy red? Seriously? I mean I like it, the combination is fun and everything, but it’s not like they’re ‘my’ colours…. I will surely wear the blouse from time to time, but she won’t be a staple. Too bad, but it’s my fault really. Of course now that I have a perfect pattern, I can make multiple other blouses in any colour that I like… My mind is spinning already!

Now that the blouse is finished, I can fully concentrate on my year-project. The sketches have been finalized, the fabric has been ordered (it was like Christmas when it arrived) and notions have been bought… Everything is ready! I already made a muslin for parts of it. I’m so excited, but I can’t tell/show you anything yet. The presentation will be in March/April, so you’ll have to wait until then. Sorry! Maybe I’ll post occasional sneak peeks on instagram (Hint: it has nothing to do with the architecture collage, in case you’re wondering!), so make sure to check it :)

On a side note, I’m finally moving this weekend, so things are still a bit chaotic right now. I hope I’ll be able to post more starting next week, when everything has calmed down a bit and I have access to all my stuff again!