Personally, I think that making a tailored coat is one of the most difficult garments to sew. You can’t make it too fitted or you won’t be able to wear layers underneath, you have to make sure that everything is in proportion and that you can move well. The most difficult part was probably deciding the style of the coat – I could make literally anything, the only restrictions were: It needs pockets (any pockets) and a lapel. Originally, I wanted to make a trenchcoat, but the collar is not a lapel, but more like a collar from a shirt (is there a technical term for that?), with a collar stand and everything, so I changed my mind (The Isla trenchcoat from Named looks great and has all the typical features, maybe it would be nice for spring? That would leave me with enough time to find the perfect fabric as well ).
The coat I decided to make is double-breasted, has princess seams in the front and back, double welt pockets, two-seam sleeves and, ovbiously a lapel and a collar. It is fully lined as well. The main fabric is a soft grey wool garbadine – wool is generalyl easy to work with, but you have to be careful that you don’t ruin everything with pressing – it is an important step, but you could easly iron a piece out of shape. Ironing the lining was worse, though, I just had to look at it and it would have wrinkles again.
I started by drafting a basic coat pattern after my own measurements and then added the design lines, collar, pocket placement, etc. Then I cut the fabric and interfaced it – I’ve never used so much interfacing before, on the shoulders, the hem, the collar, the whole front… It’s really all about preventing the coat from looking like a limp sack in the end :). After trying it on for the first time, I made some small adjustements, added the pockets and the coller and lapel – easier than expected. Then it was time to sew the lining and assemble everything. Making buttonholes and attaching the buttons was the last step. I actually had to write step-by-step instructions, so in case I want to sew a similar coat again (maybe for someone else, my mother is already interested), I’ll know exactly what I have to do.
Underneath I’m wearing the bow-tied blouse from Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing, which I made out of some teal linette during the summer holidays. It is actually a wearable muslin – I plan to use some of my precious Liberty fabric (strawberry thief) for the actual garments. The fit is very good, I just have to lengthen it by at least 5 cm, because I do want to wear it untucked.