What’s coming next winter, Vol. I

After last week’s general trends, which were not just fashion-related but also described a certain lifestyle, we are going to have a look at 6 specific trends this week. They are forecasts for winter 2016/17 and are inspired by the trends described in the magazine Textile View, issue #111. I am not quoting them, but they did the original research, so all credits go to Textile View! I gathered all the pictures through pinterest and lost a lot of the original links during the process: I just put them all into the collages, but I did not mean to violate any copyright laws (and I hope I didn’t) – the pictures are not my own, just so that that’s clear.

But let’s return to the main topic of this post and have a look at the trends!

TOILE

This one is all about putting fragments together and creating perfection out of imperfection. The process, the actual making of a garment becomes a visual part of the finished product – seams are on the ouside rather than the inside, pattern marks and lines are made visible. There is a lot of draping and pleating involved. Piecing different materials togther to create new and unique shapes. Blending functions of garments to explore different forms of utility. Japan is an important source of inspiration, layers of cloth are hold togther with obi-like belts, fabrics are being gathered and pleated. The materials are very basic, felt, calico, twills. Transparent layers like organdy and organza add interest and tension. The colours are equally reduced, white turns slowly into black, greige and ecru add some warmth.

toile

LIGHTWORKS

Lightworks is the trend that brings the future into the present. New, innovative matrerials are key. They determine the shapes of the clothes and how you move in them. They are being folded and wraped and create completely new silhouettes. They can be spongy and bouncy or stiff and geometric. Plastics, latex, nanofoams – they all demand to be handeled in the right way and designers are learning to work with these new materials, that come right out of the laboratories – or 3D-printers.. Translucency plays a big role, but the real new thing are soft pastels for winter, which look different depending on the material. New colours emerge as well: holographic, shimmering effects that add another dimension and are ever changing.

lightwork

BRICOLAGE

Humour, creativity, an explosion of colour and the mixing of different design disciplines – this is the essence of the third trend, aptly named ‘Bricolage’. It’s all about having fun and rediscovering the child in yourself – not taking yourself too seriously. Here, technology and the handmade are once again mixed up to create completely new shapes, that won’t fit within any boundaries. Everything seems a bit coincidental. Clothes extend the body’s form and have it their own way. They are heavily guided by the materials used: It’s a mix of textured surfaces like tufted piles or hairy woolens with technical meshes that have a liquid, glossy finish. The fabrics are thick and quilted and create sculpted silhouettes. The colours are bright and happy, cobalt, scarlet and bright turquoise share the space with marigold and bubblegum pink. Navy and grey are the neutrals that bring everything together.

bricolage

RADICAL CHANGE

This one may be my favourite. It tries to find a balance between the past and the future, tradition and modernism, passivity and activity and also carries a strong political message: The suffragette movement is in the spotlight, as well as the differences and similariteies between the genders. Metamodernism is another keyword. This trend connects the past and the future, it stands between the two. Haute Couture skills and precise craftmanship are important, menswear tailoring is used heavily, the suit is the perfect symbol for that. This male aesthetic (also: ‘poor boy suits’) is mixed with feminine silhouettes with exaggerated sleeves, long skirts and tiny waists. Classic matreials like tweeds and herringbone are used in new ways and unconventional shapes, whereas new synthetic materials are formed into traditional garments. The colours are muted, charcoal, mahogany, stone, taupe and olive are only brightened by a little red and indigo and the suffragette colours: green, violet and white.

radical change

DISENTANGLE

There is always an ‘eco’-trend and this year it’s called ‘disentangle’. But there is more to it than just trying to recreate nature and creating a new awareness for our planet. ‘Disentangle’ is about capturing the wildness and taming it, bringing it close to the body and achieving a stunning visual aesthetic. There is somthing primitive about it, something mystical. The evolution is a symbol of this trend, old things have to pass in order to make way for something new. The garments are in the background, are secondary: The shapes are simple and large or tubular, all to let the textiles shine. Hems and seams are often fraying or left raw, they withstand the formality. The fabrics have a handmade quality to them, new ways to create cloth emerge: Threads are being braided and twisted, fused onto a base or felted and intertwined. Loops are hanging down, everything looks random, there is no repeated pattern to be found. The colours are classic earth tones: Warm, earthy browns, limestone, cement, a dusty grey-green. A splash of colour can be found in a bright navy blue.

disentangle

FORGE

The title says it all: Metals are once more in the focus. Now it’s not just its colour, but designers use actual metal threads in their garments, to create unique shapes. Clothes are being disorted, they are either crumpled or stretched taut around the body. Gilded surfaces reflect the light and present a new form of glamour. Rigid frames encase flimsy fabrics, hard is mingled with soft: Something that is also reflected within draped fabrics, where the soft folds are held together with strong metal clasps. Pintucks and pleats in all different forms and shapes create associations with architecture and bring the different design categories together. The fabrics are glossy and fluid, but the metal contet makes them easy to mold and shape in new, innovative ways. The weaves are visible, surfaces are being printed to look like oil or treated to look like burnt metal. The fabrics are textured and interesting, very tactile. The colour of molten gold gives everything a luxurious finish, it almost resembles amber or dark beeswax. Rust and darkened copper, as well as forged steel and iron complete the metallic palette.

forge

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