Favourite Fashion Films Vol.II

A couple of weeks ago I presented you a list of my favourite fashion movies/short films/video ad campaigns. This time I’m changing the theme a bit: Still fashion related, but todays clips are all about the behind-the-scenes. My favourite thing! I love peeking into studios and see artisans working their magic.

Savoir Faire Haute Couture Summer 2013 – Chanel (I honestly love every single one of the Chanel savoir faire videos, but I think this one is my favourite)

Haute Couture Summer 2014 – Schiaparelli

Haute Couture Summer 2011 – Dior

Lace Macrame – Valentino

How a Dior Dress is made – Refinery29

Inside Chanel’s Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater – BoF

Harris Tweed – National Geographic

Below I have a couple of clips for you that illustrate the design process behind collections and that show the many places inspiration can come from (literally anywhere!).

Autumn 2011 – Anthropologie

Sunset Road – Spell & The Gypsy Collective

Summer 2015 Inspiration – Erdem

Creative Minds with Christopher Kane – Business of Fashion

If you have 9 minutes to spare, watch this video about the bespoke leather jackets of Atelier Savas. If that isn’t the coolest thing I’ve ever seen…
And if you have a bit more time, I can highly recommend you watch Alexa Chung’s The Future of Fashion series she created with British Vogue. It’s hilarious and informative at the same time and really explains how the industry works. Here is a link to the whole playlist as well.

And last, but not least, make sure to go back to my first post about fashion films – I added another video to the list!

Costume Heaven Pt.II

I still have little free-time at the moment, but I have some older photos to share with you today! I recently looked through all the photos I took in the costume fundus of Art4Art and realised that there are so many more I want to share. I’m just obsessed with all the fabrics, the colours, the details…. so here are a couple more pictures, enjoy!

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Favourite Fashion Films

I’m currently up to my ears in work for my portfolio for the University of Applied Arts (for stage design) – The submission and the exam are next week and I’m kind of finished, I think?
I’m actually dying to do something else, to tackle other creative projects that don’t involve paint, paper, acrylic glass, cardstock…. Something involving fabric and a sewing machine would be nice :)

But for now all I can do to keep myself sane (and calm) and make sure I don’t run out of inspiration is to rewatch my favourite fashion films. Short films packed with inspiration, emotion and, most importantly, beautiful clothes. They are all quite different, the range is from moody and sensual to upbeat and happy and everything in between. The ones below have remained my favourites and are the ones that I could watch over and over again. Hope you’ll enjoy them as well, and if you have recommendations, please tell me!

(Not included are all those wonderful behind-the-scenes clips that take us into the ateliers and show us how it’s all made – maybe I’ll post a compilation of my favourites from this section one day! They are just as fascinating!)

It Had To Be You – Vogue India (accompanying this wonderful editorial)

Once Upon a Time in Sicily – Vogue Japan (there is a version in better quality on vimeo)

Learn the ABC’s of Fashion – i-D magazine

Voyage Seafarius – Tommy Hilfiger

Fashion Against Aids – Dan Martensen for H&M

Castaway – Spell & The Gypsy Collective

Summer 2015 Campaign – Dolce&Gabbana

Rangeen – Free People

The Cruise 2016 Campaign – Gucci

Stranger in a Room – Dior Homme Summer 2016

Mr. Burberry – dir. by Steve McQueen, probably the least ‘fashion’ film, but pretty nonetheless

#2017makenine

You know that I love to plan. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – it’s my favourite part. I also (try) to plan my sewing, match fabrics with patterns, make a queue… until I change my mind and make something completely different. So plannig what I will sew for a whole year? How can this possibly work?

I see my #2017makenine as a list of things that I definitely want to make, I could also call them The Big Nine or something. I put a lot of things on this list that I have wanted to make for a long time and this year I will finally make them so that I can move on and dream about different things. There are some easy, quick projects as well as more tricky/time consuming ones. There is a lot of outerwear – I just find it really difficult to find coats and jackets that I like and that are in my price range (I wouldn’t say no to a Peacock Feathered Burberry Trench Coat, ha!). But alas, DIY it is! Luckily I love to sew…

(for links to source, click on the picture! Patterns and everything else are linked as well, just move the cursor over the text! (since I changed my theme slightly, the links don’t show up in a different colour anymore…))

Leggings
I’m really loving the oversized-shirt/sweater-and-leggings look at the moment and while I own some shirts, I don’t have any leggings. Finding the right fabrics might prove to be a little tricky, but I already found the perfect pattern.
*pattern: Megan Nielsen Virginia Leggings

Suede Trench Coat
I’ve been dreaming about a suede trenchcoat and I just happen to have 4m of faux suede waiting to be cut into. It will happen this year. (it must)
*pattern: Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat

Joggers
Both out of a regular stable knit and… velvet! (totally inspired by Sara, her version is an absolute dream)
*patterns: Named Clothing Alexandria Peg Trousers, Papercut Patterns Anima Pant, True Bias Hudson Pant (still not sure which might suit me best!)

Light Dufflecoat/Parka
The Albion is waiting for a while now, I’m waiting for the right fabric. A lightweight parka would be nice as well.
*patterns: Colette Albion, Burdastyle Parka (because I have this issue already)

Duster
Something less structured than a trenchcoat and less detailed than a parka. I can imagine a solid, black, understated one as well as a velvet version.
*pattern: Orageuse Londres Trench Coat

Bomber/Souvenier Jacket/Hoodie
I recently discovered that bombers do look good on me (used to be convinced of the opposite) and now I want to make one myself. I would really love to add a huge embroidery to the back, but to be realistic – that probably won’t happen (maybe patches instead?). Ideally, I could also modify the pattern to be both a jacket and a sweater, and even add a hood to it.
*pattern: Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber (though not ideal, the best one I’ve seen… any other suggestions?)

Camisole/Slipdress
Great for layering, perfect for summer. I already have so many outfits in mind and could come up with countless options more. I also love how I can customize them with lace, embroidery….
*patterns: Seamwork Savanah, True Bias Ogden Cami, Tessuti Sadie Slip Dress or I’ll try to make a pattern myself

Bodysuit
Again, great for layering. Especially under those high-waisted skirts and shorts I wear all the time. I’d also love to play with details like super low backs, v-necks, lace, sheer panels, etc.
*patterns: Closet Case Nettie Bodysuit, Named Clothing Tuuli Bodysuit or selfdrafted again

Maxi Shirtdress
The shirtdress is still my favourite kind of dress and this year I really want to make a maxi version. And generally try out new lenghts for both skirts and dresses (tea/maxi).
*patterns: Grainline Studio Archer Button Up (for a more relaxed look), Sew Over It Vintage Shirtdress, Sewaholic Nicola Dress, Named Clothing Wenona Shirt Dress, Deer and Doe Bruyère Shirt (all lengthened to floor length)

These are the big sewing goals for 2017. Without doubt, I will make othe things as well and maybe not all of the ones listed above. That’s alright. Plans change, I change, I might not want to have a souvenir jacket in my closet after all. But right now, this list looks perfect to me. Maybe (absolutely!) a bit ambitious, but I have twelve months to make them. Let’s get sewing!

Costume Heaven

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It’s always been my dream to visit the fundus of Art4Art – the ateliers that make all the costumes (and everything else related to them – corsets, shoes, hats, jewellery) for the Austrian Federal Theaters (read more about them here.) I always imagined it as some kind of gigantic wardrobe, filled to the top with the most beautiful clothes from every epoc. Let me tell you: That’s exactly what it is. But there is so much more to discover!

I had about 2 hours to browse and after just half of the time, I was already exhausted and couldn’t really digest anything anymore. Hundreds, no, thousands of clothes are kept in the fundus: dresses from the middle ages to the present, undergarments (petticoats, crinolines, corsages, camisoles), shoes in boxes underneath the costumes, cupboards filled with hats and all different kinds of headdresses.

They had wonderful 40ies inspired frocks, in beautiful rayons (I would like to know from where they got all their patterned fabrics – there were some really special prints!), servant’s dresses from the turn of the century, huge Biedermeier dresses (you’d probably say victorian), and all the way back to fluid, plisseed grecian robes. The physically oldest costumes they had were from the 50ies – silk kimonos from Madame Butterfly (see below – the red tulips on blue and white palms on light grey). Older ones are already in the archives of the theater museum, as they don’t get used anymore, unlike the rest of the stock.

Menswear is mostly militarian garments, with tons of different uniforms. Also, crazy renaissance jackets with insane details (frills! pleats! slitted! embroidered!) and many justaucorps with beautiful soutache decoration on cuffs and pocket flaps. You can probably tell, I went a little crazy in there….

My favourite part were probably all the fabrics. Printed or woven, they were so elaborate, detailed… Really special. All the different prints/patterns, right next to each other, looked amazing from afar – but even better in close-up. Embellishment is often faked (glued rather than sewn on, for example), but the fabrics are mostly ‘genuine’. Or treated in such a way that a simple cotton weave looks like the most expensive jaquard. A lot of knowledge and secrets go into these fabrics, something I’d like to learn and experiment with myself.

I took so many pictures, because I wanted to remmber everything – and I didn’t even see it all. I could literally spend weeks in there, looking at the intricate details, the insides of the costumes (especially those!) and photograph and sketch it all – I could fill at least one thick sketchbook just with costume studies from the Art4Art fundus. Didn’t have the time to do that, though! I’m sharing the best pictures with you today – lighting was not great, but I think you’ll still understand my fascination with this place!

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#sewphotohop September

September was #sewphothop month on instagram, organized by the incredible Rachel from House of Pinheiro. I thought I would share all my entries with you, just as I did last year. Some pictures might be familiar to you, others were taken solely for this competition… Prepare for lots of photos! (+original captions)

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Day 1 – hello: I’m a costume design student, currently on holidays in Italy. I was recently featured on Kollabora, so if you want to know more, head over there!

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Day 2 – favourite skill: finding interesting colour combinations, contrasting textures and endless inspiration everywhere. Never stop looking!

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Day 3 – dream project: a handmade capsule wardrobe for an imaginary trip through Italy. It would be full of high waisted things, little tops, full skirts in blues and whites.

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Day 4 – signature look: cinched waist, full skirt. You might also occasionally find me in jeans (high-waisted) and t-shirts (blue+white). And always with a headscarf!

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Day 5 – print or solid: Print! Stripes, dots, florals… It’s just much more fun to sew with!

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Day 6 – essential kit: thread, pins&needles, measuring tape, small scissors, fabric shears and fabric… my basic essentials (even colour coordinated, ha!)

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Day 7 – stash busting: Little crop-tops use only a small amount of fabric and are do easy to make.

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Day 8 – made for someone else: It usually takes me ages to finish something I make for someone else, but I’m convinced it’s worth the wait for them. This debutante dress for my sister came together pretty quickly, but there was a real deadline which I couldn’t ignore…

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Day 9+10 – gone wrong/mini or maxi: Preferably midi, but rather mini than maxi! Just like this dress, where I stupidly used a really unsuitable fabric – way to stiff for this silhouette! I wear it anyway :)

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Day 11 – favourite tool: these scissors <3

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Day 12 – tips & techniques: always pre-wash your fabric! (this was a short video)

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Day 13 – game changer: getting pinking shears. I don’t have a serger, don’t like zigzaging and french seams can take so much time… so pinking it is!

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Day 14 – wardrobe: Mine is filled with all kinds of clothes, dresses for the day and the evening, t-shirts, blouses, skirts – new, vintage, and quite a lot of handmade garments! All my favourites basically. Not too big, not too small. But it still really needs a proper sort-out! :)

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Day 15 – sewing space: new semester, new classroom, new sewing space! Still getting used to my machine, this time it’s a Juki. My vintage Singer at home has some slight issues recently, so it’s a relief this one works perfectly!

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Day 16 – wish list: The time, and, even more importantly, the perfect fabric for a Colette Albion coat/jacket. I want to make it for so long already – I don’t even remember when I bought the pattern! I’d really love it in a waxed canvas or waterproof fabric so I could take it with me on hikes. I hope I can cross it off the list very soon!

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Day 17 – zippers or buttons: zippers for practicality, but buttons for the special details! I hate making any kinds of buttonholes though…

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Day 18 – knits or woven: almost always woven, just like this newest purchase from a week ago.

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Day 19 – sewing library: actual sewing books – few; inspirational/research books – lots more!

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Day 20 – seasonal: Autumn is close and as the weather changes, my clothes will too. Time for warmer dresses (like this flannel shirtdress I made last year), cozy fabrics and many layers!

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Day 21 – go to patterns: The ones I drafted myself. They fit perfectly and I can easily modify them to look exactly how I want. My trousers-block is probably my favourite!

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Day 22 – texture: my second favourite thing after print – I love interestingly textured and very tactile fabrics. For my graduation collection, I felted and embroidered parts of a jacket for a unique texture and the appearance of feathers.

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Day 23 – Inspiration: I find it everywhere! Paintings, books, movies, fabric, clothes (old and new), interesting colours, textures and details in nature, architecture, while traveling or in everyday life. Looking for inspiration and organizing/ storing/noting it for later is one of my favourite things to do!

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Day 24 – one-piece or seperates: I still prefer to make dresses (just one piece and you are dressed), but I’m trying to add more seperates to my wardrobe – more versatility!

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Day 25 – favourite era: I do love these crazy frilly dresses from the 1870’s. For menswear it’s around 1810 – a classic look, the beginning of the elegant understatement.

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Day 26 – close up: One of the first bound buttonholes I ever made and the print magically lined up somehow. Also, really love the dress (the shirred shirtwaist from Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing)

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Day 27 – other interests: I love the Formula 1 🏁 big fan :)

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Day 28 – wow: Alexander Mcqueen’s A/W 2006 collection “Widows of Culloden”. My absolute favourite ever. Just look at this coat!

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Day 29 – storage tips: Always keep your chalk well-cushioned – they break so easily!

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Day 30 – what’s next?: a Grainline Studio archer shirt in Liberty tana lawn. But first, need to make a muslin!

Wow, that was a lot! Cheers if you made it to the end! :) Did you participate as well?

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July

This July, I…

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  • visited a Loden factory
  • re-upholstered a sofa
  • cut my finger badly
  • stayed at work for 12 hours once, but we had pizza at the end
  • went to the cinema (Star Trek Beyond + Pets)
  • and to the opening ceremony of the Salzburger Festspiele
  • spent a whole day traveling and then cooled my feet in the ocean after dark
  • got a sunburn on my upper back
  • ate delicious crêpes
  • found sand on my pillow every morning
  • chased the perfect sunset

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